Tag: Bourdain

Rojo Cielo es Mi Cielo, Tambien

~ Leslie Lanagan ~ Leave a comment

Last night, Zac took me to my favorite Mexican restaurant in the area because I had to show it off (he’s from Arizona and we’re seemingly alone in this city in terms of “our food.” Texas and Arizona are Mexican influenced to a very heavy degree, and DC is, shall we say……. Not.

I like Salvadoran food. I like Nicaraguan food, etc. But there’s no nostalgia in banana leaf tamales for either of us. It’s not that it’s inferior, it’s that it’s not home. I have learned that the best way to eat in the city is to talk to other cooks, and ignore the white guys (for the most part). It’s not because white people don’t know Mexican food……. Around here.

I have very, very high standards because I will take a quick aside to tell the story of how I met Pati Jinich.

My father is a huge Pati Jinich fan. Huge. I didn’t even know who she was. My dad just bought us tickets to go and see her do a cooking demonstration at the Mexican Embassy (my God DC makes normal things sound amazing). I am always excited to go hear a chef talk. I did not know who I was meeting in terms of PBS fame. She is to him who Vivian Howard is to me, although my dad is definitely on the Vivian train as well.

So, my stepmother noticed my dad’s fascination with Pati and started calling her “his girlfriend.” So, when he called to tell me he wasn’t coming, I said, “careful, Dad. I’m going to steal your girlfriend.” I told her this story.

That’s how we roll. Us cooks.

At the end of the day, it wasn’t a cooking demonstration. It was like flipping shit to every chef I’ve ever had. So, she talked to me longer than she talked to anyone else and was the only one who she said, “let’s take a selfie together.” She didn’t tell me she was going to kiss me, and you can see it on my face. It’s one of the most beautiful shots I’ve ever had in my life and it was taken by a total stranger.

Which is why I will tell you about the next great chef I met, Rachel Bindel, and then I’ll post a worse one. It’s not how I would have wanted it to turn out in terms of myself, but it is on brand. I feel shell-shocked at meeting Someone. A capital S because getting back into the rhythm of speaking “kitchen” burns in my soul. I am fluent in food, it’s what I love, and I just don’t have it together physically enough to really do the job well. As my last chef told me, “you have the heart of a chef.” It took me a very, very long time to accept that I couldn’t hack it physically because I was so determined to run my own kitchen at some point. Then, at some point, it was like “fuck it. You have CP. You can’t get better by working harder.” I was working 12 and 14 hour days multiple days of the week trying to get my performance consistent. If there was an award at restaurants for perfect attendance, I got it in DC.

So, it means a lot when chefs talk to me, because I was married to a chef for a long time and rode her coattails into the business, but stayed with it on my own. I miss cooking with her, personally and professionally. She remains to this day my favorite coworkers ever. Like, I definitely wouldn’t want to be in a relationship with her, but I would be absolutely fucked not to have her on my staff.

In food, you speak with your eyes because you don’t have time for communication except for “heard,” “behind you,” “coming in hot,” “around the corner,” and my particular weakness at calling back because math, “how many we got all day?” “All day” means counting up every instance of every entree on the board. If I’d become a chef, I would have let the sous handle all that (just the math part). I am not quick enough and I know it. Being a creative with autism/ADHD affects me differently as well, because my autistic side doesn’t multitask and my ADHD side thrives on chaos. It wasn’t a good fit for me, but it is my idea of heaven.

If heaven exists and you arrive at the Pearly Gates, what would you like to hear God say?

“Bourdain says you’re on dish.”

So, when I met Rachel Bindel, new chef at Cielo Rojo (the former chef has taken on a second restaurant, so she is chef de cuisine by a hair’s breadth), I absolutely fell apart inside.

I asked her where she went to culinary school and she said simply, “Hyde Park,” and then she forgot who she was talking to. My jaw was on the floor at “heytch.” She went to CIA.

The first thing I asked her was “have you been to the Bourdain and Ripert wing?” I thought, “you better get this woman’s phone number rightthefucknow.” If you’re in The Six, you’ll know why it’s important. We are now entering a new phase of research for my novel, which is a clue, but of course you know that if I write it, it’s going to have something to do with CIA.

So, anyway, she’s a lot younger than me and just tapped my phone and gave me all her details. For as excited as I was to meet her, she looked as excited to meet me…. After I started talking. I hesitate to ask if I can meet the chef, and I don’t know why, because I always put them at ease immediately by being inside the wire. It’s different going to a table full of lay people. You absolutely have NO FUCKING CLUE what to say.

In my case, sometimes this works beautifully. In some cases, it does not. Self select as to which applies to you, and “you’re welcome” or “I’m so, so sorry” as applicable.

So, I hope I’ve made a new friend because both our heavens, at this moment, are red.

Oh, and Zac was there, too. 😉

We just had the funniest conversation where I said, “it’s okay that I’m writing about this, right? That we did this?” He said, “sure, and I appreciate that you asked. I said, “but you don’t care that I mention you, right?” (Insecure after a year and two months…. Eyeroll.) He said, “of course I don’t care if you *mention* me. I said, “ohhhh, you’ll barely rate as more than a mention in this one, too.” We weren’t in the same room, but I hope his response would have been flipping me the bird.

He knows how I feel about him, that he’s the most stand up, stable guy I know and I am blessed beyond all measure in the amount of attention he pays to details. He remembers things I don’t, and it just adds to our institutional memory. I like that we’re creating memories together so that I have him to write *about.* I’m glad to write about anything and everything, but I often write the best about the people I love because I’m so moved by them. Good writing doesn’t come from shallow emotions, and neither do good jokes.

If you’ve been following me for a long time, you know I needed to meet Rachel like I needed air, because I needed to replace some bad memories with good ones. The like cook who sexually harassed me also went to CIA, and I needed to replace a bad CIA memory with a good one to really move on and forget.

Now, I can say I know people who have been to both CIAs.

Zac doesn’t just get a mention. Last night was magic that he created himself.

So, just once, you get to see the wizard.

The Asset

~ Leslie Lanagan ~ Leave a comment

I had one of the strangest, most moving experiences I’ve ever had with a person just because he was my Uber driver, and I was wearing a baseball cap. If you’re a fan, you already know what it says, and your heart is probably beating a little faster now that you’ve read the title.

I have told you that I am the kind of person that people get deep with, fast. I hear a lot of “I’ve never told anyone this before.” People spill information to me that they would never tell anyone else. And in fact, I’ve been sitting on this story for about a week because I had to feel it completely before I could describe it.

I was using Uber Share, so I ended up in the front seat. I got dropped off last, so we had plenty of time to talk. I asked the driver where he was from. He said, almost too quietly, “Afghanistan.” Because of his demeanor, I thought, “oh, Allah. Here we go.” I walked right into it, because when people say “Afghanistan” quietly, there’s a story there. I knew it was going to be large, and it was going to hurt. However, I did not know in advance that it wouldn’t hurt because I’ve wanted to meet someone like him for a very long time. It was a blessing from Allah for both of us, reciprocal in nature…… Like slicing over a wound until he touched my arm.

He was a cleaner in the Afghan government somewhere, and we asked him to work for us. Then, we got him out when shit hit the fan. He knew he wanted to come here, and that’s why he agreed to work for the letters stuck semi permanently on my head…… The OG have seen it coming.

C

I

A

They’re my three favorite letters in the whole world because of three people. The first and second are Jonna and Tony Mendez. The third is Anthony Bourdain, who is a double dipper because he loved spies with every fiber of his being, and he also went to Culinary Institute of America.

One of these days, one of Zac’s friends who is “recovering CIA” will cook with me….. And I will get my moment.

“Didn’t they teach you ANYTHING?”

So, this man (a boy in my eyes) weaves a tale that has me so mesmerized I don’t even notice when we arrive at my house, nor do I want to get out of the car. Not really.

He left everything just for the American dream. Happier than he was in Afghanistan, but devastatingly homesick and can’t go back. Family still there that he won’t see for years, if ever.

It’s a lot.

People who sacrifice for America aren’t just Americans.

He started to cry as he was telling me how much he missed the land, more so when he told me about his family.

The reason I didn’t want to get out of the car is that I was crying, too.

When you are voting on immigration, think of people like him and not the pictures of immigrants that politicians try to make without reading any actual data. There is no doubt that once he was recruited, he could have died for our country and not his own. That’s how badly people want to come here. It’s people who believe in us more than we believe in ourselves….. Because we’ve created a pyrite dream all over the world, where the riches promised are left to the imagination…. Harder when that reality really sets in.

I do think that ultimately it was worth it, because even he agrees. That’s what matters. And an Uber driver in the United States probably makes the same as a cleaner in Afghanistan due to the value of each currency. It is not like he had to come here and discover all of his certifications were worthless. However, I do understand the feeling of exile. I had so many rights in Oregon that I lost when I moved to Texas. That’s because gay marriage didn’t come along until 2008 federally. So, even though we were a married couple in Oregon, we weren’t in Texas. It is a different feeling when you don’t want to go back than when you can’t.

He healed more things in me than he’ll ever know, and I hope that unburdening himself made him feel lighter as well.

Now I can say quite literally that CIA has given me some of the best moments of my life- meeting the Chief of Disguise, and now the type of people we need to collect information in the first place.

We saved him, because he saved us first.

Just Roll With Me a Bit

~ Leslie Lanagan ~ Leave a comment

So, I read my last entry and it was so full of typos that I thought I’d gone stupid for a second…. and then I realized, no…. I am, in fact, blind as a bat. I had the font size on my tablet turned down too low in my editor, and I didn’t switch spell-checking on. So, obviously I am a genius and you need my mind.

I just got finished making supper. I didn’t know what I wanted, so I went for my go-to. Pancakes. This time, I didn’t stuff them with anything except milled flax, cinnamon, and Mexican vanilla. Normally, I add fruit and nuts, things like that. The fruit and nut ones make great peanut butter sandwiches. If you make them too thick, you can always cut them lengthwise. In fact, a couple of my pancakes look like they have bites taken out of them. This is untrue. I tore pieces off and ate them. I was already full, but I didn’t have any Tupperware, so I was trying to fit them into sandwich bags.

Which reminds me of the time I went to an Indian restaurant and ordered peshwari naan (I think that’s the one with raisins and other fruit.). It was to-go, and I was talking to the hostess. I said that peshwari naan was really good with peanut butter, and she looked at me like I was everything wrong with white people.

Fair.

However, now the house is steeped in a brown butter aroma that I haven’t smelled in a very long time. We used to make a brown butter vinaigrette at Tapalaya, and it’s a scent that takes me right back to that particular kitchen. Kinkaid says his recipe for bourbon maple syrup, which went on our fried chicken, dies with him. No the hell it won’t. I will stand over the stove for a week until I get it. I know what it tastes like ’cause I’ve made it. It’s just a matter of asking Zac for some bourbon to make it. 🙂 (I should ask him for some scotch, too, because I’ve never made butterscotch from scratch…… These are two things that would probably appeal to his appetite, so a shot or two is probably not out of line. 🙂

Kinkaid was an awesome chef, and any memory that takes me back to him is a good one.

But I make big pancakes. The best. No one can make better pancakes than me. I’m here to make America plate again.

Yes, I am making fun of the former president, but for real tho. You don’t run a brunch program for years on end and get out of there unable to make anything breakfast-wise….. except an omelette. It’s not because I don’t want to learn, it’s because I’ve never worked at a breakfast place that had them on the menu. A correct French omelette takes being in a restaurant because you don’t learn how to make them in a weekend. It’s different when you make a hundred a day. The closest I’ve ever gotten to an omelette was three eggs that looked like a broken waffle cone. But even that is progress.

It’s why if I could meet Anthony Bourdain, if it was a thing that were possible, the only thing I would ask him is “could you teach me how to make an omelette?” You don’t learn things about cooks by talking to them. You learn things by cooking with them. Everything about them comes out when they teach technique. Plus, it’s just the thing about doing an activity together makes you connect more.

When I miss him, I turn on the audiobook of “Kitchen Confidential.” I start to cry and turn it back off. It takes about 30 seconds.

To switch to another favorite chef, Gordon Ramsey, he had an interesting idea on his episode of Last Meal (YouTube, Mythical Kitchen). He said that the future of cooking is buying and trading chefs all over the world like professional footballers. The host asked him if there was anyone he’d want to slide tackle, and he said, “I did. David.” I laughed so hard I nearly fell off my bed, because the “Becks” is implied.

Gordon is who he is. He’s a rough, tough footballer who had his career taken from him at a young age due to an injury. But now those injuries are worth 17 Michelin stars. Not bad for a rookie………. who could have played Roy Kent no notes.

Here’s the thing about being a cook. You have no friends and no family beyond the kitchen, because it takes over your whole life. This is because we work while other people play. We don’t fit in with the rest of the world who thinks there’s something really wrong with you if you don’t wake up before noon. You get lots of “it’s nice to see you finally showed up to something.” Bitch, I haven’t seen my mother for Christmas in eight years.

The thing about Bourdain, though, is that there’s so much hate for him in the cooking community because mental health isn’t valid. Someone in my line cook group actually said “shame on him.”

My reply was, “you know, Anthony Bourdain is never going to hear what you said, but your friends in this group will. And now they know exactly how you feel about depression and mental health, so they know not to come to you.”

This is why people die.

You’re fine with bipolar as long as we never seem depressed or manic.

You’re fine with ADHD until you can’t track with us, and then we’re stupid, because neurotypicals think, “that’s just the way it is.” ADHD has no reference and does not give a flying fuck about the way things are. You’ll struggle in school as much as you do at work, except no one at work likes you enough to learn your communication style and how to get what they want out of you. It is all on me, all the time, to know what is expected of me because “these are things all people know.”

You’re fine with autistic people until meltdown and burnout, because you don’t understand the inconsistency in our energy levels, or demand avoidance, or literally being confused about anything because the instructions are so clear……. to a neurotypical brain.

I am not saying that I am not responsible for anything. Just because my brain works differently than yours, that does not mean I get a free pass on doing stupid shit. However, it does mean that people will get frustrated with you very, very fast.

No one wants to work with Sheldon from “Big Bang Theory” or Sam from “Atypical.” We ask too many questions. We want logic to be able to buy in. It’s logic that not many coworkers have. So, you become flaky, stupid, and whatever else choice words the boss has for you when they’ve reached the end of their ability to communicate with you.

It’s schoolyard tactics. The best way to deal with the neurodivergent kids is to leave them alone, like Special Ed is catching. Neurotypicals think that neurodivergents are annoying af, but they also hate HR, so they might be nicer to you at work than they would be at home.

An autistic person is always going to have a fairly equal spread among good evaluations and bad ones, because our energy fluctuates so much. Everyone says, “why can’t you perform like this every single day?” There are a thousand reasons why, and none of them are valid to a neurotypical who sees you using your disability as an excuse.

Therefore, I like solitary work. Being with coworkers is often downright embarrassing because when they learn I’m neurodivergent, their voices take on a different tone. I’ve never told anyone at work that I was autistic, because I didn’t know I should. It’s only been within the last year or so that I’ve learned so much….. mostly because my Adderrall only works half the time at keeping my ADHD symptoms managed, so it cannot be the whole answer.

In some ways, I think it is harder to be low needs autistic than high. People recognize autism when the person has no ability to social mask. They put up with meltdown and burnout because that’s what an autistic person does.

It is very hard to tell that autism does the same thing to people who are low needs. It’s not that we don’t have as big a problem, it’s that we’ve learned to cover it up because most people think we’re weird. You do what you have to get by.

I feel particularly discombobulated most of the time because it depends on which processing disorder is driving the bus and how much energy I have. I absolutely can be an ADHD hyperactive mess (talking, stimming), and at other times I struggle to get out of bed.

All autistic people are white knuckling it at work, which is why my favorite YouTube psychologist has three or four degrees and loses jobs all the time. Money and autism are not related. You can have the highest paying job in the world, but so much depends on your reputation.

My big thing is calling an impromptu meeting. I am the type person that cannot return to a thought. So, if I am interrupted, I basically have to start from scratch because I cannot go in the same direction anymore- it’s lost.

I don’t want to socialize at work, either, because I’ve learned over time that it gives your coworkers more ammunition against you if you tell them anything with which you struggle. Office politics determine job security, not necessarily performance…… and with an autistic person, performance is relative. With an allistic person, “it’s just how things are. You can’t hack it, and we know it.”

The bitch of it is that I have really high self-esteem, and a lot of confidence. I am not raking myself over the coals, this has been my job history and that of many, many others.

Because mental health is shameful.

Yes, Chef

~ Leslie Lanagan ~ Leave a comment

Two things have tickled me this week. The first was a meme talking about how people fawn over line cooks and somebody replied that line cook energy is Pete Davidson energy and she’d dated 15 of them. I wondered why if that was the case, why aren’t celebrities asking me out?

The other thing is that because of The Bear, people are starting to give line cooks/chefs Pedro Pascal energy. Yes, Chef is the new Daddy and I think it’s also hilarious. That’s because there is definitely something to watching us work. It’s mesmerizing. The mental and physical gymnastics on the brigade while it’s 110 degrees make us crazy and yet effective. Just know that it takes a lot to keep up that energy. Baby us when you can, because we hurt all over and our brains are fried. It’s not that the thinking is hard. It’s that it’s relentless. How do you time things to make sure everything is ready together? You work obsessively the whole time. We have more in common with athletes and ballet dancers than we don’t, because they don’t turn on the heaters and crank them up to hell at a basketball game.

I think that’s why Karens bother me so much.

It’s fine to complain about a restaurant’s food or service. However, Karens don’t seem to know how to get what they want without launching grenades. They will absolutely destroy someone’s self-esteem for a free soft drink…. and that’s not the scary part. The scary part is that they keep doing it over and over with absolutely no remorse. If I went on a date with someone like that, I would absolutely walk out in seconds. Even if I think you are God’s gift to the world, I will leave boot prints on your ass if you’re ever mean to waitstaff and cooks. That’s because there are some problems that can be worked out. There are some that can’t. Most of it depends on attitude. I have been a line cook for so long that I will not let it happen twice. Ever.

That’s because I’ve been hurt so badly that I’ve been taken to the ER twice in 25 years (I was waitstaff before I cooked), but I didn’t injure myself twice. I’ve worked a five hour shift after picking up a hot spoon where the plastic fused to my skin. I’ve still got a pink triangle on my arm from touching a convection oven, and I am proud of it on multiple levels.

Pink triangle on my sleeve…….

I have worked through the flu, migraines, shingles, you name it. In every restaurant where I’ve worked, if you needed help, you got it, but that shit takes a minute and a half, get back to work.

I could cut off a finger at some restaurants and they’d just put it in the walk in until we closed, because no one leaves til we’re done.

Yes, it is that bad, and I’m telling you that so the Karen shit stops.

I still have scars on my stomach from accidentally touching it with a fry basket because someone came toward me and I grabbed it reflexively.

If you’re wondering why so many of us are alcoholics and drug addicts, a small part of that is having no health insurance, so let that sink in. If no one is prescribing you actual medication, you have to get it from somewhere. However, we are all severely addicted to caffeine to the tune of several 300mg energy drinks a shift if we think we’re in the weeds.

And people wonder why I don’t watch “The Bear.” That shit is for waitstaff. For us, it’s just “trigger, trigger, trigger.” If I am ever in a coma, just play the sound of a ticket coming in and I will have my ass on grill IMMEDIATELY. I know that *some* cooks will watch it, but that’s not the majority. Most of us need Xanax after the first episode. You think that shit is easy? Chasing down a delivery before everything opens? That scene is where I went “nope.”

I went to bed thinking about my pars.

I went in on my days off because I needed to make sure everything was prepped because first rule is don’t trust anyone else. No one has your back in a meritocracy. It wasn’t a big deal to me, though, because sometimes it was just a matter of driving Dana when I was off. It wasn’t like I made a special trip. But still. Most blue collar workers don’t spend a second thinking about work off the clock and we dream ours.

If you quit a restaurant job, the sound of tickets coming in will haunt you for years.

The other thing you have to realize is that most waitstaff aren’t required to tip out the cooks, so the income disparity is enormous. They’re getting the pay while we’re doing all the work. It’s not your job to remember to tip out kitchen staff. People hardly ever do. But it is your job to recognize that you’re only seeing the top layer of a submarine…. just Denzel and Gene smoking cigars that cost more than drugs.

……and we’re all little ducks.

To handle that kind of pressure, we’re all assholes. Every single one. There has to be a relief valve somewhere. It is not unlike being a world class surgeon. You have to have the arrogance to believe you can save a life just like you have to have enough arrogance to believe that feeding 500 people is child’s play.

When it gets bad, people drink themselves to sleep. They drink on the line when it gets worse.

The kitchen itself is a drug from the moment you walk in. Even if you’re stone cold sober, you’ll feel adrenaline coursing through you. When I worked at a local brewpub, I drank Mexican Cokes after work and it still took several hours to calm down. I’m not an alcoholic/addict, but I don’t drink often now because I didn’t want to fall into the trap. Besides, their beer was barely below room temperature and all I wanted was ICE. The sugar replacement didn’t suck, either.

When I was working in the kitchen, I stayed up all night and slept most of the day. That’s because since it took so long to come down, I’d write until the wee hours. My favorite schedule was writing midnight to 0400, because I didn’t have to go to work until at least 1500, sometimes later. I fell easily into waking up at noon or one, and I had Bourdain’s perfect life, complete with anxiety and bipolar depression. It’s why he’s St. Anthony to all of us, really.

Dooce is not the only manic rambling spiral I aspire to be. I wanted to be Tony first. I didn’t want to do the whole TV thing, I just wanted to cook and write so that I didn’t have to do IT. I couldn’t write when I was in IT. I was tethered to my phone and laptop 24/7. I loved being able to be off.

The hardest part of cooking is that very little is open all night, and even though we *can* do our business before noon, dollars to donuts we won’t. We are too tired to do anything but sleep right up until service. I can be totally sober and still look like a tweaked out addict because there’s no one who doesn’t using caffeine at that level. It is straight up abuse.

So, when you come into our houses and treat us as lesser than, we get a bit………… testy.

If you want to know the power of the high, ask your coworkers whether they’ve ever been cooks. Most people who tell you they were will tell you they got out because of the stress and pain, and tell you it was one of the happiest times in their lives without taking another breath.

We don’t do it because it’s easy, we do it because it is hard…………. and chicks dig scars.

“Back of House”