No Fish on Mondays

What jobs have you had?

I am the first in, so I start the ovens, the fryers, and the flat top. I need them to be up to temperature by the time we open, because sure as shit the first person to order will want pancakes. I make them my own by adding hazelnut fluff and making them thin, like a crepe. People who don’ like pancakes like mine. They’ve told me on multiple occasions. Later on, I will make Lanagan’s Pub Chili, a recipe that started as a soup of the day and got my name on the menu. I experiment with different beers and different levels of spice for the Oregon palate. Sometimes I challenge it, making heat radiate through people’s bodies, but not in a way that hurts.

I am very good at fixing things. Soup is my forte, because if someone else made it, they’d ask me to approve it. I was not the chef, because we don’t have one. We all experiment with everything and keep what sticks. We are allowed to constantly improve the food, rather than letting the menu get stale. We are an Irish pub that riffs, like corned beef and cabbage eggrolls.

I am a student. I read and absorb knowledge, like respecting first contact and only flipping once. I am also willing to make something awful without guilt because I know that it takes failure to get an idea that will appeal on a large scale. I love making things new and more exciting than something I’ve had before. Last weekend it was pineapple thyme stuffed French toast.

I have learned to fry things to perfection and the one reason I justify eating out occasionally. I am not getting a deep fryer for my house, and yet there is nothing quite like French fries out of a deep fryer vs. the oven. However, since I can do it, my standards are extraordinarily high. The danger of French fries is making them too brown while the inside is still raw. I do not approve of sending out fries that are a little bit undercooked. Restaurants who do send fries out like that are generally worried about ticket times.

I can make a mean Hollandaise, but I don’t like it. That’s because I have to clean the egg pans with lemon dish soap and the smell drives me up the wall. So we have bearnaise, and Shaun (bartender) and I laugh every single shift about how the first thing I need from him when I walk in is a shot glass full of white wine. It’s a running joke that never gets old. I taste it and the tarragon dances on my tongue.

Over the course of the next eight to 12 hours, I will burn myself three times. I rarely cut myself anymore, but burns are relentless. I will touch an oven, accidentally press the fry basket toward me protectively burning my stomach, and touch the flat top with my bare hands. I just have to hope chicks dig scars, because I have a lot of them.

Once I grabbed a spoon that was too hot and the plastic fused to my hand. Once I sliced my thumb in addition to the ham. Working here is no picnic when it happens, because there’s nothing to do but keep it moving.

Having a checklist was more important than having a chef, because repetition is key, but I can’t do that without a list. Something will be forgotten that could make people sick. I thrive on this work because I am actively making people’s lives more comfortable and showing off my own skill without bragging. We don’t have to talk about it. Just eat it.

Eat it without adding salt and pepper first. Don’t change my vision before you taste it. Something that you normally don’t like might complete the whole dish and you’ve cut out an element you might have liked. I was unprepared to like licorice and peach as much as I do.

Make a frozen bellini and add some anise, like Sambuca or ouzo. You’re welcome.

Licorice flavored alcohol is one of my favorites because of its throat soothing properties. I’m a singer, and that informs everything else. It makes me a creative. I look for unusual textures and flavors everywhere. My current favorite ice cream is strawberries, balsamic vinegar, and black pepper. That’s only the stand out from Salt & Straw, though. All the other ones I can make myself, like buttermilk, bacon, or cafe au lait. It’s not that I couldn’t make it, I just haven’t.

I would rather have sweet cream or vanilla ice cream with stuff in it. For instance, I don’t want chocolate ice cream. I want a swirl of fudge or some chocolate chips. Sweet cream will let anything play, particularly olive oil (trust me). The trick with putting olive oil or balsamic into ice cream is choosing a flavor bold enough to stand up to it. That means expensive, most of the time.

Aging brings on depth of flavor. Good ingredients can hold their own, provided you know what to do with them. Some cooks can take everything and make it look brown, no matter what’s in it.

My knees are aging much faster than I am. The ballet on the brigade is amazingly hard work, yet when I don’t have my ass in the kitchen by 1500, I feel lost. Days off are the worst, because it interrupts my flow. Taking my knife for a workout is my favorite thing, and my most precious inanimate object. It is an extension of my hand, the only part of me that’s French as I prep 20 pounds of mushrooms.

The smell is incredible. Hospital cleanliness mixed with unique spice combinations meant to impress. To raise the expectation of what you were going to get at an Irish pub, because there’s no way to make one truly authentic in the US so why try? Chili isn’t Irish, but my name is. I don’t think I would have gotten the honor if my last name was Smith.

I cook food for me, and I can experiment even more. What makes a burger crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside? What happens when you finish a burger with butter? (OMG, ya’ll.) That idea came from making fajitas. I can dance because I see patterns in how things are made, that i I master the basics I can do everything else. My technique isn’t great, but my palate is. If it excites me, it will excite others.

For instance, I made pancakes out of Bisquick that were really thick so I could stuff them up with chocolate and pumpkin seeds for protein. It must have been a little too thick, because it turned out like a cross between a pancake and a biscuit. It was the perfect response to a cronut, especially since I’d loaded it up with so much butter that it was perfectly crisp, and white bread with chocolate is one of my favorite things.

I make pancakes because I can try anything with them, when that’s not true of most desserts. You can’t alter the recipe of a cake unless you have a Master’s. I don’t normally eat them with syrup. I build layer cakes with a variety of fillings, or eat them the moment they come out of the pan soaked in butter.

I make steel cut oatmeal that’s so good it’s like people have never had it before. It’s an accomplishment to get someone to try it, because they’re used to oatmeal being soup. I add all kinds of flavors and textures, but my favorite will always be maple and brown sugar. Most people just like vanilla and sugar, but flavors come from seeds, nuts, dried fruit and milk. I do the same with grits- make them part of a meal instead of serving cereal that looks like paste. I add eggs, sausage, cheese, hot sauce, chives, anything to break it up…. even sugar on occasion. I like grits that are firm, yet dripping with butter.

….And that’s what I’m thinking about as I load and unload the dishwasher countless times, making sure to pay attention to the silverware.

The urge to zone out and let my characters play is intense, but I have to wait for more of a break than taking people’s lives into my own hands.

I never forget the underside of cooking, that you can accidentally really hurt someone. I also never forget the joy of truly hitting a home run.

Like getting my name on the menu.

5 thoughts on “No Fish on Mondays

Leave a reply to Mike Bunch Cancel reply